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Perfect Ring
The Perfect Ring is made from a single strip of the Vertebrae weave, joined in a continuous circle. Vertebrae is easy enough for a beginner and instructions for the weave are provided down the left side of this page.

In a Hurry?

To order materials to make this ring, choose the heaviness/thickness of your chain from the options listed down the right side of the page and click. On the next page, select the metals for each of the three ring sizes in the ringpack section and add them to your cart. Ringpacks make 10 inches of chain (which makes about 4 rings in the midrange of sizes) so it isn't necessary to determine ring sizes beforehand. If you or the person you're purchasing for is new to making chainmaille, add the kit upgrade and we'll include tools and printed instructions for making the rings.

If you'd prefer to order a finished ring rather than make one, you'll find a wide selection available from our professional customers in the jewelry gallery.

Perfect Ring Perfect Ring (2417 KB)

Click the link above to download a PDF of the Perfect Ring instructions. Or follow the step by step instructions for weaving Vertebrae shown below; click the first photo to see it enlarged with text.

1. Close a bunch of large rings and medium rings and lay them out like this illustration, one inside the other, on your work surface. We'll call these rings 'sets'.
2. Stack two sets and link them together using two of the small rings.
3. Separate the two small rings and slide them down to the sides.
4. Use your non-dominant thumb to push the set in front up as far as it will go.
5. Stack another set on the one you just pushed up and link those two sets with a pair of small rings. (Shown a bit from the side so you can better see what you're doing.)
6. Again, part the two small rings and slide them down to the sides while pushing the front set up with your thumb.
7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 for the length of the chain and it should look something like this.

If we have a kit for this, you'll find it above. If there isn't a kit, we'll recommend the best free online resource we know for learning.

If there's no learning resource listed, it's because we're still working on this section of the site. Let us know if you need something and we'll bump it to the top of our schedule. :)

Making the Ring

To make a ring, simply weave the required number of rows of Vertebrae in the recommended ring sizes (refer to the Vertebrae by gauge pages down the right side of this page) and join the ends of the weave together in a continuous loop. Vertebrae is easy to join, simply overlap the ends to match the rest of the weave and join with two of the small rings. The ring sizing information below will enable you to determine how many rows you need.

Sizing

To measure the finger, we suggest using a wide band or wedding band ring sizer. Measure the finger for a tight fit at the knuckle, then go one size smaller on the chart below. You can also use a Multisizer Ring Gauge to get a measurment of the knuckle AND the base of the finger.

The ring is flexible and it will flare to slide over the knuckle and then settle securely onto the finger. If you make the ring too loose, it could be flung off accidentally, especially when wet and soapy, but a properly sized ring will hold onto the finger comfortably below the knuckle and stay in place.

For example, let's size a 20g ring for a finger that measures 8 at the knuckle. You can see on the chart below that it takes 21 rows of the weave to make a size 8 to 8.5. We want the ring a little be tighter than the measurement at the knuckle, so the best size should be 20 rows.

Ring Size 18g 20g 22g 24g
5   18    
5.5     22 31
6   19    
6.5     23 32
7   20    
7.5     24 33
8 17 21    
8.5     25 34
9        
9.5 18 22 26 35
10        
10.5   23 27 36
11 19      
11.5     28 37
12   24    
12.5  20   29 38
13        
13.5   25 30 39
14 21      
14.5        
15   26    

Of course, fingers are individuals and you may need to adust sizes differently for different shapes of fingers, but the chart will give you good guidance.

The smaller the ring gauge, the more sizing options you have. But even in 18g, you have enough sizing options to make a perfect fit.

Putting It On and Taking It Off

Put a little preassure on the top of the ring to push it down over the knuckle. Pushing the ring by the edge flares the other side of the ring open a little which makes it easier to slide over the knuckle. To take the ring off, reach over the finger and pinch the bottom side of the ring and pull up. Pinching the bottom causes the top of the ring to flare open and makes it easy to slide over the knuckle.

A Vertibrae Ringpack will make 10 inches of the weave - that's enough maille rings to make about 4 rings in the middle range of ring sizes.  Refer to the size chart below to see how many rings can be made per ring pack.

Ring Size in mm in inches Rings per Ringpack
5 49.5 1.95 5.13
6 51.5 2.03 4.93
7 54 2.13 4.70
8 56.6 2.23 4.49
9 59.1 2.33 4.30
10 61.6 2.43 4.12
11 64.1 2.52 3.96
12 66.6 2.62 3.81
13 69.1 2.72 3.68
14 72.6 2.86 3.50

Note: If you know your aspect ratios, you'll notice no consistency in our recommendations for this weave. We tested the weave in every gauge for the best look and characteristics for the design so that he ring sits nicely on the finger and the aspect ratio did not remain consistent up and down the chart.


What Makes This Ring So Perfect?

First, it's a ring. Years ago, a well known wire work author asked me to recommend weaves and ring sizes for her to make a series of finger rings to embellish with wire work for one of her books. My recommendation was that she just not do it because I couldn't make a single satisfying ring. By satisfying, I mean a ring that is comfortable, holds up well, and looks good. I could not work out a single unflawed ring design using chainmaille alone. It isn't easy, so it isn't common, which means most people have never even seen a chainmalle ring at all, much less a great one.

Comfort -- This ring is ridiculously comfortable and effortless to wear because the chain is flat but it armadillos when curved, like dragonscale does, which makes it cling to the finger in a half round wire shape. Most rings are made of half round wire because it's so comfortable to wear, yet those rings feel like an iron lung compared to this one. The finger is not perfectly round, like a rigid ring. This ring conforms perfectly to the finger so after a very short time (hours) you don't feel it at all. It's like having a strip of soft fabric wrapped around your finger. When you've been wearing this one for awhile, other rings seem unnecessarily restrictive by comparison.

Durability -- I wore the prototype, an untumbled 22g sterling, for a month straight and it didn't so much as snag a hair until after Izzi chewed on it. (I had coconut oil on my hands and she was trying to bite it out. :) No ring (or cellphone or headphones or furniture) can stand up to Malamute teeth but if that's what it takes to make an untumbled, butted maille ring snag its first hair, that's pretty impressive. I'm wearing a 24g sterling now and it's doing just as beautifully. There is no torque with this weave, no pressure on the rings at all, so the ends don't separate with wear, even the kind of harsh wear rings get.

Looks -- Every person who's seen this ring has wanted one. People who don't wear jewelry, even manly construction guys who do not wear rings at all, have flat out asked for them. Many are people we know, who know what we do, and have never asked for things before. This ring causes jewelry lust in people who do not get jewelry lust.

The design is unisex, neither masculine nor feminine inherently, which is great, but it can be leaned toward the masculine with square and diamond rings and/or a larger gauge or oxidation, or leaned toward the feminine with embellishment or daintiness of gauge.
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Closing the Loop


The final step in completing your Perfect Ring is to join the ends of the Vertebrae weave together. This quick tutorial will show you step by step how to connect the weave to itself to make a continuous loop. 


You'll want to get good at this so you can easily resize your Perfect Ring for a perfect fit.



~STEP 1~

Pick an end and arrange the rings like you would if you were about to do another row.  




~ STEP 2 ~

Use and extra connector ring (a) and just attach it to the last set (b) & (c) - This will keep the connector rings at the end from sliding out of place. I usually use a scrap ring -In these photos I've used a copper ring so that you can easily see it.




~ STEP 3 ~

At the opposite end, open one connector (a) and hook it through the set (b) & (c), just like you would if you were about to make another row. Hold the whole weave by the open connector ring and let it hang.  




~ STEP 4 ~

Now, straighten the weave with your other hand, take the end of the weave with the extra ring and bring it up to the open connector ring that you're holding with the pliers, and before you hook the set, give the whole weave a half-twist and then hook the set (b) & (c) - I do this by swinging the bottom out and away from me, put in the half twist and bring it back to the top in front of my pliers and hook it onto the open connector ring.



~ STEP 5 ~

Close the connector ring. At this point your halfway done. Now remove the 'extra' connector ring you attached in step one (whose only purpose was to hold the end of the weave in place).



~ STEP 6 ~

Drape the ring on your finger and arrange the rings into the pattern so that it looks complete except that the one last connector ring is missing. (you may have to mess with it a bit to get it in place - the way I do it is to push the one connector ring all the way to one side and then 'fold' the pattern into place which removes the little half twist we did earlier).




~ STEP 7 ~

Open your last connector ring as wide as you can - a bit wider than you did all of the others when making the straight weave. Then hold the ring at the 6 o'clock position – this will give you better control for inserting the ring into place.


 


~ STEP 8 ~

You can put the last ring in from either side, but I find it easiest to turn the weave around so the last connector ring gets inserted from the open side of my hand. I'm holding the weave in my left hand, so I want to put the last connector in from the right. Also, I like the ring overlaps facing me so I can more easily see between the folds and guide the last connector ring into place. 


From the inside of the Perfect ring, hook connector ring through the bottom set by placing the open end of the ring under the set and bringing the open end up through the bottom and then rotating a little to the right. Keep holding the open connector with your pliers and fold the outside set over the open connector. You now have the ends joined and all 4 rings 'hooked' onto the last connector ring.  You should be able to keep hold of the connector ring with your pliers an let the weave hang while all of the rings stay in place.




~ STEP 9 ~

Now you just need to close it. Since the last connector ring is open so wide, it's a little tricky. What I do, is keep my grip and close the ring enough to hold everything together - then I get a better grip and plier placement to make the final close. 


This last ring can be very tight – and the smaller the gauge, the less room you'll have to work with. Turn the last connector so that the open part of the ring is as far out to the edge as possible. You'll probably find it helpful to use smaller pointy nose pliers when putting in the final ring.




You'll want to take your time here and make sure that you've got plenty of room to close the last ring – If you're path isn't clear, you could accidentally scratch or gouge the nearby rings.



That's it – You're Done! You're Vertebrae weave is now joined to itself in a continuous loop.



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Once You Know This Weave . . .

Vertebrae (Kingscale)

Vertebrae SQ/DI

20 gauge yellow goldfilled and oxidized sterling, size 8.5<br />by Alpha Maille20g sterling and oxidized copper<br />by NoelJewelry18g sterling and rose gold filled<br />by NoelJewelryDad's Ring - 20 gauge sterling silver, size 9<br />Mom's Ring - 22 gauge sterling silver, size 8<br />by Hui Hui Designs
22 gauge sterling silver, size 8<br />by Hui Hui Designs18g sterling silver, oxidized, size 12<br />by Wendi Mink18g sterling silver, oxidized, size 9<br />by Wendi Mink22g sterling silver, size 5<br />by Just Nichelle
22g sterling silver, size 5<br />by Just Nichelle22g sterling silver, size 5<br />by Just Nichelle22g sterling silver, size 6<br />by Just Nichelle20g bronze, size 9<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry
20g bronze, size 9<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry18g sterling silver and rose gold-filled, size 6<br />by Wendi Mink18g sterling and rose gold filled<br />by NoelJewelry20g sterling and oxidized copper<br />by NoelJewelry
18 gauge Argentium sterling, oxidized, size 12<br />by Diana Ferguson Jewelry18 gauge Argentium sterling, oxidized, size 12<br />by Diana Ferguson Jewelry18 gauge Argentium sterling, oxidized, size 12<br />by Diana Ferguson Jewelry20 gauge sterling silver<br />by NoelJewelry
18g sterling silver, oxidized, size 12<br />by Wendi Mink18 gauge yellow GF, sizes 13 and 8<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry18g yellow gold-filled, size 13<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry
ring finger - 18 gauge yellow goldfilled, size 8<br />forefinger - 20 gauge Argentium, size 9<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry22g sterling silver, size 9<br />by Just Nichelle18 gauge Argentium sterling, size 12<br />by Diana Ferguson Jewelry18 gauge Argentium sterling with sterling petals, size 6<br />by Diana Ferguson
22 gauge sterling silver with rose gold accents, size 8<br />by Hui Hui Designs22 gauge sterling silver with rose gold accents, size 8<br />by Hui Hui Designs18 gauge, rose and yellow goldfilled, size 6<br />by Silver Lion Jewelry20 gauge sterling with copper<br />by NoelJewelry
20g yellow goldfilled, size 10<br />by Alpha Maille24 gauge sterling, size 8.5<br />by Alpha Maille20g palladium sterling and rose gold filled, size 8.5<br />Alpha Maille
20g palladium sterling and rose gold filled, size 8.5<br />Alpha Maille22 gauge sterling, size 10<br />by Alpha MailleOxidized sterling silver, size 12<br />by Wendi Mink22 gauge sterling, size 10<br />by Alpha Maille
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Reviews

4 comments

Diane Rowley commented on 02-Dec-2012 02:06 PM5 out of 5 stars
I love the Perfect Ring and I've already made a bunch of them in different sizes. Note, however, that perfect, snug closures are very important to the integrity of the finished ring.

Margaret Bernstein commented on 07-Dec-2012 06:14 PM5 out of 5 stars
I love it. My customers have been asking for a chain maille ring for years but I wasn't satisfied with the options available. This solves all the issues. I changed the ring sizes slightly to use the ones on hand. The largest rings I changed to 18g/6.0 and the mid sized to 18g/4.0 the small are as described. It worked well in Argentium Sterling. The test wearing is progressing nicely and I cant wait to make a bunch of them in varying sizes and metals. Well done Aislyn , thank you!
Pamela Harrison commented on 25-Jan-2013 02:44 PM5 out of 5 stars
I love this ring! I have made one and am working on the second, but I could use a little advise on getting the ends joined together. I find it difficult to get the last 2 small rings on to join the ends together while holding the other rings in overlap position. Any advise to make this easier? I am working with 20g rings.
Lori Moses commented on 01-Feb-2013 07:03 PM5 out of 5 stars
I've made the 20g in arg sterling with rose gold filled as the large sized ring with 21 rows.I get so many compliments and requests. I really need to carry a few on me ready to go. Great job! Now I need to make myself the bracelet to go with :)


sadface :( Love!



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Vertebrae (Kingscale)




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